Thursday, September 11, 2014

Diving in: Agra, The Taj, and a cancelled train.

My taxi driver brought me right around East Gate. He then got a rickshaw for me to where vehicle are blocked off because of preserving the Taj Mahal. The rickshaw would be 10 rupees. I thought that was a great price considering that was their lowest bill aside from coins that spread to 2 and 1s. 

The young boy asked what hotel, I stated 'Hotel Sheela'. The taxi driver came back to me and said 'tip is not included'. You shouldn't really tip anyone here. I mean unless you are feeling really really well treated, maybe? At least that's my understanding. I stated, 'sir you were  already paid'. He again states that tip was not included, do I understand? Yeah I understand you want even more.. I'm not dumb dude ya got the damn taxi service and the other guy got commission.... So he was still standing in front of me as I'm already in the rickshaw with my bags. I truly didn't feel like dealing with this right now so I said, 'yeah you want a tip? Here.' And handed him 100 rupees. I hope it insulted him. If I had more than one 10 at this point I probably woulda thrown him one of those. He looks at me in disgust and gets closer to me and says 'what is this?! I drive all the way from Delhi' I forcefully said back, 'yeah you did! And you already got paid! Do you want this or not!?' He says 'ok sorry sir'.

The rickshaw brings me to a blocked road were he can't go, so I must walk to my hotel. We only went a couple hundred feet. Not a big deal it's around the corner. But not even the couple hundred feet was worth the 10 rupees. Another 10 and you have a water bottle. On the small rickshaw ride he continuously tries to tell me to use him for tours. All I say is no. It was annoying. This was mean of me... I set up a time for him to pick me up today (the day I leave Agra) at 11am. I kind of already knew I wouldn't be takin him but he wouldn't shut up! Soooo... Yeah. Haha.

I walked around the corner of the street which I soon found out to be East Gate of the Taj Mahal. I can feel the presence in the air of something great but the scam I was just a part of still drags me down. I walk another couple hundred feet, if that, and see Hotel Sheela. What relief. Why is this place soo nice looking on the outside. It's great. Relaxing.


I walk up and I'm early to check in. My train wouldn't have arrived until a bit later. It was a slow train, ha! I'm so hot. I feel so gross. My sweat is starting to dry as soon as it comes off my skin. It's an awkward sticky layer of sweat that I feel like I could peel it off. 

They let me check in early. Awesome. I'm exhausted. I go plop on the bed after signing in. Oh I'm not sure if I mentioned it or not but every single time you check in somewhere you must let them make a copy of your passport. Then sign in with a ton of details. They must send in documents to the government right away. It's probably because of terrorism. Vipul and I discussed how Al Qaeda just declared a couple days ago that they will be bullying India. Joy. So I was able to rest and refresh for a minute.

I take a look around the room and it's just alright. It'll do. My opinion of the room starts to change. This is not a great room. The water is like a fountain coming out of pipes in the bathroom, a common thing so I am not too worried. But the wall outlet hardly worked, I had to hold it in sometimes so the plate wouldn't pop off the wall. There were clouds of dust rolling around the floor. The light doesn't work, it stays off more than on while flickering. All of these things are small and I don't stress about them too much but then I realized I had no soap and towel and no toilet paper! A must have!!!!! Whatever I'm just annoyed because of what just happened with the taxi. These are all things I can easily overcome. I ended up texting Kat, 'this sucks I had to walk here and I'm in a cement block for a room.' What a baby, I'm fine. That was a fine room. It's India... C'mon a cement box is gold.

I end up telling myself, the last time I felt like this, or near to this, was day 1 and 2 in Delhi. When I arrived in Rishikesh, I took my time acclimating. A tad too much time. I could have went out a couple hours before I did. So I remembered that. I knew that once I did, I felt much better.

In light if that, I packed my small bag with my camera and money and headed out to get a bottle of water to sip on as I planned my day. It was only 1:30! I'm in the zone. I saw another solo backpacker known as Tom Sawyer.
Thomas Sawyer is a new face that gives me so much hope, back. I ask if he cares that I join him. He welcomes me. We begin talking about Agra, the Taj, how long we've been here, our experiences, etc.. I felt so incredibly dumb telling my story of the taxi at the train. How AMATEUR. I guess I was too confident and lost my wit. But what matters is that I'm here now.
We both end up laughing at my misfortune.

Thomas has done some pretty awesome things here in his 7 of 8 weeks. He was able to take 4 days to hike a 6000m Himalayan mountain. I envy him SO much considering the Himalayas was one of my main goals. Knowing I only had a day and a half, I wasn't able to hike. Though I was able to see the mountains and do some walking on the roads that flow through them!

Thomas helps me understand the trains better. Similar concepts that Lee has mentioned to me. Like how do you know what carriage you are at? Are they labeled? How do you get in the right one and what if you are standing at the far end of where yours is? I then ask how do you know when to get off? He laughs as he puffs his cigarette, 'goooooood question.' That's not a good response. Im flattered I have a good question, really, but getting off the right stop can't be fun. He says you just have to hopefully catch a sign out the window, ask people (if they understand you).. He also says chain your bags to the bed.

I kinda wish I got side lower bunk for the window. I'm top bunk. On both my remaining trains. Yikes. No window. No way to see the station names/signs.

We continue to talk about the rest of our journey, and knowing I leave tomorrow, we suggested I head for the Taj sooner than later to spend my time there. Better than nothing I'm assuming. Lee is Whatsapp-ing me saying something along the lines of 'mate, don't let it bring you down just go to the Taj and it'll all be worth it.' Thomas mentions we should grab dinner on one of the rooftop restaurants at 8. I'm in. See you then brother!

I head out of the hotel, and take a rickshaw for 10 to the ticketing office. Then another 10 on the way back. I did the pedal rickshaw not the motored ones. I've been in every public transportation except a bus and a train. Let's hope I make the train and don't have to take a bus. Haha!

I make my way back to East Gate, go trough the sweet short line, and go through security with my bag. I'm in the clear but my bags not. As they take out everything the female officer looks at me and I laugh. I apologize for the amount of crap I have, not to mention the roll of toilet paper on the top of the pile. She then takes out my journal and my gift from Kat. She stated they can not come in. I ask why. Just can't have journals.... Weird. She then stated I can have them locked up for me while I go in. I get nervous and ask where do they got locked up to be safe. She says 'out there.' She points out of the gate.

I ask again to the officer out of the Taj East gate. He says any of the shops can hold my journals. Ohhhh okay yeah man in fact I don't want to bring my wallet, my keys, my camera, or my damn mind with me can they hold them too? I just walk back to my hotel, it takes all but 10 minutes to walk back and put them away. I got back to the East Gate entrance and the line grew long. Only about a 10 minute wait though. My anticipation and excitement is diminishing. I'm annoyed by almost anything now.

I make it through, I'm in the garden.
I make my way through the walkways, I turn right, and my jaw drops. I hustle towards the view of the Taj.

As I approach the theatrical view of the Taj, I take a moment to stop, breathe, and not rush.
All of the advice I've been given and support from everyone, I take right now. Shayna telling me to relax and just take deep breaths, because in the moment I'm fine. Lee with, 'the key to India is to slow down. Take your time. You have a very tight trip, just take your time.' Vanessa, the Walters, Jake, Stephen, Matt, Melissa, everyone, .. Kat. They all keep reiterating to not forget this is my time here, have a good time. I am soaking it in. I lean against the wall, take a few deep breaths. This building is gorgeous. I have no words.

After a few minutes of enjoying the Garden and the view, I find myself becoming more snap happy with my camera. I walk closer to the Taj, through the walkways in the garden, through the fountains, and I'm stuck in a daze once more. The small details of this building, the geometry, the patterns... It's gorgeous.

All of my worries, my stress and anxiety, vanish.

Im so happy to have made it. My plans are working out. Every time I travel from one spot to another, there seems to be a struggling point. But the results, and the things I experience are always worth it.
Taking off shoes/shoe covers before entering. Some details and views that don't really get too much recognition when you think 'The Taj'...

I take my rounds around the Taj, inside, and back through East Gate to get back to my hotel. I'm glad I was able to see this wonder of the world. I prep myself for dinner at 8, charge my devices for the next day's train ride and head to dinner. I'm not sure how long it will take me so I'll leave early at 7:30pm just incase. 

These walkways are pretty eary at night. I follow the small map of my area in the Lonely Planet. It's not far at all, and I make it there by 7:40pm. That was a short ten minute walk.

I climbed the stairs up to the rooftop of this restaurant. The roof is clustered with foreigners. You can see the Taj from here, but nothing too special. It was dark.

Thomas makes his way up and we share a beer. We discussed out evenings and how things went. I told him my worries disappeared as soon as I saw it. It was amazing. He smiled, and then told me what had just happened to him. He stated that the rickshaw driver he had, he made a deal with him to drive him around all day to see different things. And so far it's been good, but then he had gone down a wrong turn and had been stopped by the police. The rickshaw driver was being fined 1000 rupees. He then told me that the rickshaw driver was hitting the bike and freaking out. The rickshaw was telling Thomas that he must pay. Thomas said he replies to him saying 'no, this was your mistake...you drove here, not me.' Paid him for what his service was to him, then left. He also said that later tonight, as in now, our roads to walk to our hotels may be closed. Someone told him that they wouldn't be able to bring him to his hotel because of this. Hopefully we can get back. That wouldn't make too much sense.

We then continued chatting about how were both headed off to our next destinations and finding our way through the trains. He just booked a bunch for the rest of his journey. He was saying that he's worried because if one gets cancelled he could be screwed.

I got nervous. I was thinking, 'crap.. That would suck. You usually have to book days in advance for tickets. Yikes!

We are finished with our meals (we both only got pasta..I'm really not trying to get too sick. I tried some curry and an abundance of random foods at the wedding..). We walk together and come up to the gate where we usually can walk right by to make it to our hotels. It's closed.

No one is behind the gate but police.  Were confused. We walk up and I tell over the gate to the officers, 'may we enter?! We need to reach our hotels.' 

One smiles a bit and says 'of course.'

Can't blame is for thinking the worst when we keep getting into these situations haha.

We split at my hotel, give each other a good luck, and head our own ways. Good luck on the train, Thomas!

I make my way into my bed and charge some more. I decide I will not shower tonight. Especially if I'll be sweating and then I will be on the train. Not showering for more than 3 days in a row is my record so far and I'm not trying to break it. I have no wifi so I'm tearing up my data. I'm trying to research about the train. Anything I can find. Platform, times of stops before it, live status/tracking, schedules, etc.. I'm also talking to some people as my service goes in and out. I see a dot on my bed. It's moving. I see another. I get up, and I only see these two. I flick them off. Gather my things, pack up, and go to the hotel lobby. I tell them as new guests are checking in writing their info down, 'sir I need another room, I believe I have bed bugs in my room.' I hear screeches from the two girls checking in. He replies, 'no problem let my guy come check and confirm and you can have a new room.' So I told the guy checking that I flicked them away and am not sure if we will see them again.

We walk in and there are three more. He states they are mosquitos. Rigghhtttt, and I love India transit. Come on dude, I know what a mosquitos is. I told him that they fly, bed bugs crawl. I then pulled up a bed bug picture and compared to the bugs on the bed. The bugs are a tad bigger than the pic. We get a new room, only across the walkway outside but I'm okay with it after I check the bed frame, pillows, sheets, mattress, etc.. In the clear.

I'm laying there on my new bed in my new room. Perfect. I already have soap and toilet paper. I have working lights, no water fountain from the pipes, outlet is working fine. I'm loving it. So are the people next door, haha. I can hear them chatting and settling in. I lay here until I fall asleep around 12 midnight. I set my alarm for 7:30am so I can prep myself, eat breakfast, go to the ATM and get to he train on time. Sadly I wake at 3am and can't fall asleep. I'm worried something will happen again. Something always seems to happen. I'm talking to people from around 4:30 on. I go eat breakfast around 8:15am, and I'm ready for today. I talk to a couple more foreigners that just arrived late last night and fail to get their names. We discuss the trips ahead of us. We give farewells and I'm off to find the ATM. First one, an closest one doesn't work. This is 2/2 of ATMs that I've tried that fail to work. I tried one at Terminal 1 in Delhi and it's touch was not working. This one just plain didn't turn on.

I walked another km or so, got another one and it works. I select 'English' and it does not seem to translate. I assume it's at the screen where I should be putting in my pin, which it is. Success. Now I click withdrawal and it brings me to a very Hindi looking screen. I guess at what I hit. I now see a ton if thousands for options. I think I hit 4,000 rupees but it gives me 5,000. Ohwell whatever. I get my money and click clear/cancel a few times until I see the original screen again. Roll out. I head to my room, collect my items, and head to Agra Fort early. :) perfect. I'm glad I am able to leave early. I take a tuktuk. My train is number 13008. I'm reviewing my ticket over and over again. 

I arrive within a few minutes to the train station, maybe 20 minutes or so. I'm here very early, browse around the station. Looking at the platforms, learning how to get from one to another...
I look up at the LED lights.....

It's not a great feeling when I see: '13008 - cancelled'.

Here we go again....this time it's for real and it's not not a scam.


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